16 May, 2011

The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly - This Last Week or So

This is going to be another long one. A lot of things have happened in the past week or so. I'd like to end on a positive note, so I'll start with the ugly.
First off, Hoi An was more than just a shopping center. In fact, I ended up staying about five days. I did buy some custom made things, but for the most part I just wandered about. Many cities or towns look the same here, but Hoi An has a nice older architecture to it. The city comes alive along the river at night with music, lanterns floating in the river, and cheap beer. There isn't too many late night bars though, so don't go looking for that scene. There is one nightclub on the beach (4k out of the town) which is cool cause you can hangout on the beach. However, at this beach bar, I left the bar with only one flop. Someone decided to take one of my flops while I was on the beach. And no, I didn't lose it. I searched the entire place over for it and missed the last bus back to town. I even went back the next day to do a more sober and thorough search. Not only had the staff not found it, but I turned that place upside down. Anyway, so there were a few moto-taxis waiting to take people that missed the bus back, but they were charging outrageous prices. I had about $2 left on me, which should have been plenty for the ride, but they wanted 5, so I told them to fuck off and started walking. I must have been a curious sight; whitey, walking back in the wee hours, carrying one flop. I managed to hitch a ride back with a guy who spoke no English, but we managed to get to my hostel without much confusion. Losing the flop wasn't too big a deal because I had some custom flops made for me for $17 and they are sweet.
Speaking of my hostel, if you are in Hoi An get a hotel room instead. It was $5 for the hostel, but it was kinda shitty. A hotel would have been $10. There isn't too many places here that have a place to lock up your stuff. Most of the people here run on the honour system, you can leave your shit out and nobody fucks with it. Well, at least not the Vietnamese. The people you have to worry about are other travelers. I let my guard down at this hostel and got robbed by an English dude in my room. The room was a triple and the other person was a girl from Yakima, who works on boats. We got along pretty well since my dad used to be a boat builder and I grew up on the water. She worked on the Lady Washington in Seattle, so she knew the area well. I'm a pretty good judge of character and I can't see her robbing me, nor the staff - the whole pride thing and they have too much to lose. So, I'm about 90% sure it was the English dude. He stole about $250 (I'll explain why I had that much in a minute), my solar charger, and my hair trimmer (which adds to why I think it was him). I actually had more cash than that, but I have it split into different places in my luggage. Why did I have that much? Two reasons. One, I had around $100 in US dollars to use for an emergency. Two, I have been trying to book a flight from Bangkok to Istanbul and stopped into a couple travel agencies to see if I could get a deal. It's tough in SE Asia cause most of the flights have prices regulated by government. I found a place that quoted me $250, which is a phenomenal price. Naturally, they didn't take credit card, so I had to go get that out in cash. When I returned, she told me they quoted from somewhere in Vietnam to Bangkok, not the journey I wanted. So now I had $250. I did split it up, putting about $100 in Dong in with the emergency money (I also had a $50 gift card that Ivy's parents gave me as a present before I left, totalling around $250 all together). I didn't realize that I had been robbed until I got to Ha Long bay. At least on a positive note, I can laugh a little at the fucker; while he did get the solar charger, he didn't get any of the accessories which were way too buried to find and the charger is useless without the accessories. He probably could order them over the internet, but still...
The next shitty thing, that was again mostly my fault, was that I got ripped off on my Ha Long bay trip.
TIP: book a tour out of Hanoi or on Cat Ba Island. A one night is probably the best way to go cause Cat Ba Island is not that nice and if you do a two night tour you spend the second night there. You can find ferries to Cat Ba Island in Ha Long city for super cheap, but I didn't know that ahead of time. Also, the tours you can buy out of the island are more unique and probably go to less touristy places. You can also hop to and from a couple islands from there.
I got ripped off because I tried to organize a 4 night, on boat, excursion, which would be necessary to go to the source to do. In other words, I couldn't do it through a tour company, I needed to talk to the captains. However, I quickly learned that this was futile because since I was alone and no one could share the cost with me, it would cost a fortune. So, I went straight to Ha Long city as soon as I got off the bus in Hanoi, couldn't book it and didn't see any travel agencies that weren't affiliated with hotels. After learning that I was going to have to book a tour, a guy selling tours approached me. I ignored him for a while and went to the booking office to book a ticket. They ignored me for a while (Vietnam isn't know for customer service), then when they finally helped me, they told me they wouldn't know how much a tour cost until the next morning. They wouldn't tell me how much a tour had cost for this day either. Thoroughly confused and annoyed, and figuring that a hotel tour agency would charge up the ass, I decided to try to bargain with the guy from before. I knew I'd end up paying more because it was famine for tour agencies here, but he wheeled and dealed me. I probably paid near $40 more than anybody else (I was told by the hotel lady and a couple other people). Live and learn, huh? It did help me though. It strengthened my resolve. I will not over pay for anything any more.
The tour itself was unusual. I learned that most people have a really shit time on their Ha Long bay tour (another reason to try to book it out of Cat Ba). My first day and night was great. I was on a nice junker with a really good group of people. We went to a cave, saw a poisonous snake, went swimming off the boat (fantastic temperature), had a nice meal, a great sunset, and karaoke for a Uruguayan dude's bday. I even say karaoke 100% sober.
TIP: no matter what they tell you, and they will tell you to do this when booking, DO NOT BRING BOOZE ONTO THE BOATS. Most boat staff won't tell you not to do it either. BUT, every boat has a rule where they will charge you money to drink your own booze. Think of it like an extreme corking fee. A group I hung out with the next couple days had a big run in with the staff because of not being told and being extorted. The boats have booze (over priced) so just avoid the hassle.
Anyway, the tour company had put the 2 night people and 1 night people on the same boat. So, the next morning the 2 night people had to change boats. We were lucky the first day cause we had good staff. The second we stepped on to the other boat there was something wrong. There was a French couple who had booked a non-standard tour where they were to stay on Cat Ba a couple extra days. They didn't have a receipt because the staff takes them when you get on the boat. The staff didn't have it though. So the French couple was politely (I know, strange for the French) explaining the situation and the manager was not listening to anything of it. By the time we got to the island, the manager was in the French guys face yelling and calling him "fucking ignorant". From what I gathered over the next couple days is that this is the more common experience - really rude staff, lack of organization, and unfulfilled promises. From what I gather, no matter who you book through or the price (unless you can afford the luxury boats), you have about a 90% chance to get on one of the shit tours.
Anyway, Cat Ba is a big island and has some things to do like hiking or beach combing. However, it was raining hard so those were out. The city is a waste too. When it cleared up a little in the afternoon, I went to a couple beaches, which were nice, and tried to get to a pagoda set in the hill. I couldn't find the pathway though. Then, I went to the internet cafe to book that flight cause I saw some for around $450. However, that ended up being a two hour waste of time. If you booked through Aerosvit, it was only $400. So I tried to do that. They have a strange payment process. You must put in six digits of your card, then the full card number and info, then your cell number. They send you a SMS (text message) with a temporary password in order to continue. However, something is wrong with the system and it won't send the SMS. So, I talked to a help lady via the websites chat feature. She sent me a test text to make sure the number was working. I got the message and started over. Still wasn't working. So I talked to her again. I'm going to include the conversation below, but to make a long story short, I never booked the ticket and spent 1.5 hours total on chat with this girl. Also, I looked at reviews and info on the company during this time and they said the company had a monopoly in the Ukraine so their service was absolute garbage.


You:
9:16
hi, its me again. For whatever reason, it will not send an SMS to me

You:
9:17
I got your test sms 2 from this number - 447781480480

You:
9:17
but not from the website

Суганяк Дарья:
9:18
Yes I know

You:
9:18
I am currently at the screen where it asks for my cell number, I have not put any info in yet

Суганяк Дарья:
9:18
It's just test sms

Суганяк Дарья:
9:18
You can put your number

Суганяк Дарья:
9:18
on which we've sent sms

You:
9:18
it doesn't work from the website

You:
9:19
I have tried 3 times and nothing happens

You:
9:20
since I have not hit proceed, can you send the password from the number above that works please

Суганяк Дарья:
9:23
Did you use this number 447781480480 in payment?

You:
9:24
no

You:
9:24
is that the number you want me to use?

You:
9:28
anyway we can speed this up? I'm in an internet cafe and this is costing me money

Суганяк Дарья:
9:29
If you don't use it,we cannot send even test sms

You:
9:29
i use the number i gave you

You:
9:29
your system is not working

You:
9:29
I obviously got your SMS with the test

Суганяк Дарья:
9:30
Which number than did you use?

Суганяк Дарья:
9:30
this one 12066596925?

You:
9:30
i've tried both 012066596925 AND 12066596925

You:
9:31
I even tried an alternative cell number of a friend, and that didn't work either

You:
9:31
the website isn't working properly

Суганяк Дарья:
9:31
Okey,I see

Суганяк Дарья:
9:31
We'll send another one test sms

Суганяк Дарья:
9:31
than tell which text you'll get

You:
9:32
in the test SMS please put the OTP

Суганяк Дарья:
9:34
No,just test

You:
9:34
SMS 2

You:
9:37
so, now that we know which will work, can you please send a text with the OTP

You:
9:37
or an email to me

Суганяк Дарья:
9:39
When you pay system will send it

You:
9:39
the system is not sending it! I can't pay

You:
9:39
i have entered that number, the system is not working properly

You:
9:41
the only way i can buy a ticket is if you send it to me. not the system

Суганяк Дарья:
9:41
Did you start from beginning?

You:
9:41
yes, several times now

Суганяк Дарья:
9:41
We cannot send it

You:
9:41
then i can't buy a ticket

You:
9:42
who can send me an OTP other than the system?

You:
9:42
Call them and give them my email or cell phone

Суганяк Дарья:
9:42
Unfortunately,nobody

You:
9:43
that's the dumbest thing I've ever heard. Good thing you have a monopoly. I'm obviously going to write a poor review about your company

Back to the rest of the tour. The next day we got to go around for about 30 min in kayaks in a little floating town. It was a bit tough cause the kayaks are made for two people and I only had myself. But, other than a little extra effort, it's better that way cause you don't have to go "where do you want to go?" "I don't know. Where do you want to go?" Did see a couple things worth noting. One was a cove that you had to get to through a cave. The other was that someone had a ray tied to their boat and it would try to swim to you when you kayaked by. Shhh, I pet it's flappy things as I went by. Then, it was back to Ha Long city for a shit lunch and a ride back to Hanoi.
The last shitty thing that happened is that I got a speeding ticket from NZ. I didn't even think it was possible because the van could hardly get up to speed. It was for 95kmh in an 80 (speed cameras everywhere). My guess is that there weren't any signs posted about lowering your speed, which was pretty common.

Now, the bad and good observations. I'll try to keep them brief.
Bad, hmmm, I can only think of one and that was I had to take an emergency shit at the train station when I went to inquire about tickets from Hanoi to Sa Pa. It was my first shitting in squat toilet experience. I think it was from the snake from the previous night. Lets just say the details included improvised toilet paper (I didn't have any on me) from newspaper found in a trash can, which appeared that others had had the same idea cause bits were already torn from it, dirty ass bathroom, and having to pay for the pleasure of the experience.
The good things are the following: I saw two dogs with their tails tied together. At first I thought that they were cute, standing ass to ass, but then when one moved, I saw that they were tied like that. They have really funny road signs here. I haven't had a chance to get a photo of my favourite cause I've only seen it from the bus, but it is a "people crossing street" type of sign and the people are dressed really fancy like they are going to a ball.
Ok, now for my fave. I ate the heart of snake. I don't know what type it was, but it was apparently poisonous cause we later drank a little bit of the venom. Snake and some other animals are available at some restaurants here, but I think they are geared towards tourists more so than towards locals. You can book it through your hostel in Hanoi. They take you to the place, you place with some docile, yet poisonous snakes, then go to your dinner spot where you later, cut open a snake to get to the heart. The staff holds the snake while you cut for somebody else. Then they thumb the heart out for you to bite out of the snake. Yes, the snake is still alive with it's heart intact and beating. Your bite splits the arteries and veins and the heart beats for a few seconds on your tongue and down your throat. Then, you drink a glass of rice wine with the snake's blood in it. Trust me when I say this, the rice wine is worse than the heart. In fact, the heart had hardly any taste. Rice wine is 30% alcohol, so after the glass, and shots with the meals made of the snake you kill, you are a bit drunk leaving the place.
Now, some of you may have reservations about killing an animal or feel that it is a bit cruel. I'm going to keep my reasoning very short. It is respectful to kill the animal you are going to eat yourself. It is not fun, it doesn't make you feel good. Killing it yourself is putting yourself through a little bit of pain and guilt, which is a way of paying your respects to the animal's life of which you are going to eat. Hunting your own food is more ethical than not. Being removed so far from the nature of it and just eating the animal, we no longer care about that animals life. You don't have to have those uncomfortable feelings of looking into it's eyes as it's life fades away. Yes, it was still alive when we ate it's heart, but in nature it's death would be just bad or worse. Yes, it's a bit commercialized and we didn't capture the snake ourselves, but I am only focusing here on the morality of killing and eating. That's all I have to say on the subject for now.
D

No comments:

Post a Comment